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Ancient
Mayan Pottery |
Che Chem Ha cave is an off-the-beaten-path destination located
about 16 miles from San Ignacio Town in the Cayo district.
You arrive at Benque Viejo Town near the Guatemalan border,
where you will then make a turn unto the hydro road and
continue driving for about 8 miles. Here you will see a
sign pointing to a small road that leads to Che Chem Ha.
There are several gates on this narrow road, but simply
swing them open and drive through since there won’t
be anybody there to assist you. Just remember to close them
again since they were placed there to prevent the cattle
in that property from invading the neighbor’s territory.
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Small
Cave Entrance with Controlled Access |
After a short drive you will reach the farm of the Moralez
family. Antonio Moralez and his sons were harvesting bay
leaf palms, (used in thatched roofing), when they made the
discovery that would change their lives. What they found
was a cave system containing precious pottery relics left
behind by their Maya ancestors. Today the site is managed
by the Archeology Department of Belize and access is only
permitted with a guide.
After going over some instructions and a warning about the
45-minute up-hill hike, visitors can proceed to the cave
with the resident guide. It is a physically demanding nature
trail but an enjoyable one, with the opportunity to rest
and replenish fluids several times along the way.
The cave entrance is straight out of an Indiana Jones movie,
decorated with a Maya motif, with a metal gate to prevent
looters from stealing the precious treasure inside.
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Spider
Makes Cave Home |
Upon entering the cave you can feel the strange combination
of cool air and thick humidity. This cave is not as spectacular
in terms of its formations of stalactites and stalagmites
like others in the country, but it is famous for the pottery
that the ancient Maya people left behind. As you start walking
through the narrow passages of this cave you start seeing
indications of what is to come. Pottery shards litter the
floor and in some corners on the ground you can find complete
but small pieces; and if you look closely you can see some
of the details that decorate these relics.
Deeper into the system you come across ladders that lead
to chambers high on the walls of the main system. This is
where the most impressive pieces of Maya pottery can be
found, not only because of their size and condition, but
also because of their numbers. Chamber after chamber will
reveal over a dozen pots and plates. Some of them with lids,
and others with decomposed Maize and other seeds inside.
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Protected
Artifacts |
Che Chem Ha like other caves in the Maya world, were used
as ceremonial centers. The ancient Maya believed that caves
were the entrance to Xibalba, the “underworld”.
The underworld was made up of 9 of the 22 layers of life
that made up the world in which they lived. It is in this
underworld that the Mayas left offerings to the gods and
many times these offerings consisted of human sacrifice.
In other caves around the country you can still see the
remains of human sacrifice, untouched bones and skulls now
calcified.
Che Chem Ha is a unique cave enjoyed more by the archeologist
than the geologist. If you are just looking for adventure
and exploration, this destination is a must. Just make sure
to bring your flashlight and plenty of water.